"If this place ever closed, people would riot," says Minaka Urquidi, as to why she took over.
The rather hyphenated restaurant (Japanese-MexicanOkinawan) of her parents, which since 1978 has served sumo wrestlers and politicians. Buttery ahi is sung around the edges, drizzled in a garlicky soy sauce, and served with crisp fiddlehead ferns.
I understand why, based on the tataki alone. More than the sum of its parts, it's simple yet satisfying. Of the restaurant itself, the same can be said. There's a refrigerator covered in family pictures in the tiny dining room and construction workers are cracking hard taco shells to scoop Okinawan taco rice. It's flawless.